Egly Ouriet VP Extra Brut, Egly-Ouriet Base Vintage 2015

A benchmark bottling that's a staple of my cellar, newly disgorged Egly's NV Extra-Brut Grand Cru V.P. is a blend of the 2014, 2013 and 2012 vintages. Wafting from the glass with scents of pear, freshly baked bread, nougat, praline and clear honey, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with racy acids, chalky structure and a long, penetrating finish. Readers won't want to miss it.

The 2022 disgorgement of the VP - Vieillissement Prolongé - is another resounding success for a cuvée that is invariably outstanding in Egly's line-up. 60% from 2014, with 20% each of 2013 and 2012, the wine is fermented and matured in barrels before heading into bottle in 2015. It then spends seven years on the lees in bottle before disgorgement and a dosage of 3g/l. 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Straw in colour with an outstanding nose already, it shows pure citrus, peach and white strawberry fruit together with a generous brioche note. With time in the glass the nose expands to reveal layers of wood spice, hazelnut, cedar and buttercream. The palate follows - it is creamy and generous with great complexity from the lees ageing that adds a buttery toasted brioche note in waves. Remarkably the fruit remains intense and matches these notes, offering ripe, tangy peach and pear fruit. Very complex and very fine, it is already gorgeous but will age gracefully in the bottle. Superb.